röstigraben: crossing the invisible potato border

One day during our honeymoon in Switzerland, we drove to Täsch and then took a train to Zermatt, which is where you visit if you want to see the famed Matterhorn, sometimes referred to as the Mountain of Mountains, or Berg de Berge in German. As we walked Zermatt's long main street to reach the …

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winter wonderland: honeymoon in the swiss alps

Switzerland in a word: cozy. As is my tendency, I had given the country an embarrassingly little amount of thought until I visited. Roger Federer. Watches? I had once been warned away from visiting for a weekend, told there was nothing to do. But a short visit last week (our honeymoon!) was enough to pique …

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“make no little plans”: in chicago, the road trip begins

When Victor came to visit for two weeks in July, our travel plans were quite literally a rough sketch. The napkin on which I had scribbled ideas during a phone call became the backbone of our road trip. As the day of Victor's flight approached, we had little more than city names, a few reserved …

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the city of islands: death by tourism?

Venezia is a city composed of tiny islands. 120 of them, spanned by 400 bridges. Wooden or stone, humble or showy, everywhere bridges. Every time you cross a bridge you step onto a new island.  Long ago, these borders determined micro-communities, islands like tribes. People didn't know their neighbors across the water. The communities were …

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